An article in favour of bullfighting, they said. It’s not
going to persuade anyone who hates it to open their minds, or to give it a
chance, I answered. Those who have their ideas made up about ‘animal cruelty’
or ‘Spanish stone-age traditions’ aren’t going to be swayed by me talking
loftily about ‘art’, ‘culture’ or that fruity word ‘catharsis’.
Many of the British residents in Spain have been got at by
their diet of white-bread satellite television and entertainers of the standard
of Ricky Gervais, who makes his name by publicly playing with puppies and
repeatedly announcing that anyone who doesn’t follow his wholesome lead is an
utter shit.
In Spain, we have those who like the toros, those who don’t like the toros,
and those who don’t like those who do like the toros. Members of this last group are known as ‘antitaurinos’. They feel a pious
pressure to inflict their arguments – sometimes violently – on everyone else.
So, what’s the point of rolling out artists who loved the
bullfight – Picasso, Goya, Dalí, Hemingway, the poet Lorca and the author García
Márquez (the man who wrote 100 Years of Solitude and who famously said ‘I’m a
Nobel Literature Prize Winner and I love the
toros. You: you who fancy yourself
an antitaurino... what do you know of
culture and tradition?’). When you have already made up your mind – or had it
made up for you?
Joaquín Sabina, Spain’s premier folk singer, said just last
week, ‘I think that there is a lot of ignorance among the antitaurinos and a lot of scorn over a thing which has lasted for
centuries and which can be absolutely supreme: a metaphor for life and death’.
Perhaps that is part of the antitaurino problem – they can’t accept the profound truth that,
without death, there can be no life.
So: to the Bullfight. I go sometimes with my friends and my
companions, all Spaniards. I am a part of this culture and spend much of my
time speaking Spanish, reading, watching, living the vida española. Thus, I do Spanish things and, naturally enough,
enjoy this wonderful country and its people to the full. In my own province,
Almería, there are sixteen bullrings. Some are modern or large city rings,
others are small and a couple, I am sure, are no longer in use.
I might join a group of friends to see a novillada – free to the public, where
the young and inexperienced (sometimes as young as fourteen) will buy a bull,
hire a cuadrilla (the crew) and rent
the bullring. All for one expensive shot at getting the magic right. Another
time, we might go to see some of the stars of the bullfight: the matadores. There are people who treat
them the same way as we used to treat The Beatles. With adulation. One young woman of my acquaintance knows all
of the bullfighters: their names, colours, favourite pases and so on. She keeps photographs of herself posing with some
of these heroes of hers.
The crowd alone is worth a trip to the corrida. They are friendly, enthusiastic, vocal and generous. You
will be lent a cushion to sit on, given a beer or a sandwich, or a squirt of
warm red wine from a goatskin bota. You will see, together with a few thousand
others, astonishing acts of bravery, of skill and an indifference to danger, to
injury. This is Life, because Death is
nearby. Do the onlookers like to see the bull suffer, and die? No. Many turn
away from the moment. Are they cruel? No again. Death accompanies us all – I
think that the Spanish are tolerant of this finality.
The crowd, so noisy during the spectacle, leaves quietly,
and goes home. There is no truculence or fighting or drunkenness, like after a
football match. A corrida is a social
affair. The whole family came, from small and noisy children to gouty old
grandparents dressed in black.
There is an industry behind bullfighting. Many jobs and much
money are involved. The raw material, the fighting bulls, known as los toros bravos, are extraordinarily
well looked after – if you like – because they are expensive. They will have
free range on giant farms and will be bought to their destiny when they are
four or sometimes five years old. Contrast this with a bullock taken from a
small pen and killed by an electric bolt to the head at eighteen months or less
just to make you a nice sandwich.
Will bullfighting ever be stopped in Spain by the well-meant
interference of those with shrunken souls? Not in our lifetimes.
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