The weather is just perfect
for an early-year swim in the sea. Perhaps if I didn’t live here I would take
up my own kind offer and jump off a handy rock and splash about for a bit
before staggering out for a refreshing glass of tinto de verano, easy on the ice. However, since I do live here, I tend to forgo the
splashy stuff and get straight in to the bar for my order. I mean, it’s still
too cold for us thin-blooded locals, and anyway, come to think of it, I haven’t
swum in the sea besides a couple of ill-considered visits after an extended
lunch for about twenty years.
I may have developed a very
slight case of hydrophobia, the fear of water, which is apparently a side
effect of rabies. As far as I know, no other signs of this dreadful plague are
in evidence on my person and I wonder if it might just be a minor and
slow-moving dose that I could have picked up that time I was savaged by a
bad-tempered vole which I was attempting to attach to a hanky prior to
parachuting the rodent from the roof of the family home while I was still of a
tender age. Still, sixty years on and I’m still going strong, no twitches or
obvious widow’s peak, although I do like to keep the windows open during the
full moon just in case.
The sea is protected by Costas, a selfless organisation that
makes sure that the primal brine isn’t sullied by anything beyond an occasional
bather while the pristine sands of the coast are free from skyscrapers, dog
messes, barns, garages, piers (a huge no-no) and, above all, any suggestion of
permanence from those temporary ‘dismountable’ buildings which we call ‘beach
bars’. Anything really, much beyond a happy sprinkling of ‘Blue Flags’ which
denote ‘excellence’ in the beach facilities, cleanliness, showers and
wheelchair access together with no interference in Mother Nature’s soft and
salty embrace. So protected is the sea these days, that I wonder exactly what
the showers are for – are they like swimming-pool showers, where you are meant
to wash yourself down before getting in so as to keep the sea-water clean?
Apparently, the Costas people have decreed that any
tussocks of grass which grow on the sand, or any seaweed washed up onto the
shore, can’t be removed by the local town halls (except after midnight when the
ecologists are all tucked up asleep on their futons). In short, the sea and the
beach belong to us all, are to be left au
naturel, and we have free access and use for all its treasures, except of
course when told differently.
The other day, I took the dog
down to one of those ‘unimproved’ beaches along the coast a way. It's along a dusty track on a cliff above some undisturbed coves. No metal
benches, beach bars, life savers, peculiar white-painted cabins – with the
inevitable ‘Goofy was here’ graffiti: no football or beach-ball courts, no
playpens, swings or broken whirly-things, no flags, dustbins, informative signs
in three languages, showers, accordionists, tulip-vendors or public lavatories.
Just a few of those colourful motor-caravans as favoured by the wealthy
trekkers from the far north that the police are now talking about fining after
three days camping outside of the ‘approved areas’. Peaceful. I even
anticipated seeing a few dolphins near the shore nodding and squeaking at us.
They’re asking for fish really.
My dog seemed to be happy
enough with the lack of clutter on that particular beach and ran about chasing
pebbles and bits of flying seaweed (oops!).
I took my socks off.
Things went well until I
began to drive home with the window up to stop the cloud of sand and dust
thrown by the wheels. The car stank of warm and wet hound and the thunderhead
of dust, it turned out, upset a group of hiking Germans dressed in
old-fashioned shorts who were coming the other way, intent on invading the
next-door beach. Boy, did I get an earful.
On reflection, I should have
been carrying a Blue Flag.