I took a drive through Rodalquilar, the urbanisation and the old gold mines behind it, and climbed a raw graveled road several kilometres into the hinterlands of the Cabo de Gata/Nijar natural park. Eventually the track took me to the scene of 'Bodas de Sangre', Lorca's celebrated play set in events that occurred at El Cortijo del Fraile. Love is the only force stronger than hate, said Lorca (perhaps unwisely). Sometimes, well-wishers agitate to have the old cortijada repaired. It's too late for that now.